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Setting Up Kegs As Water Tanks On The Hilux
Posted by: Rusty_ on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 (00:01:04) (448 Reads) Article Rating: 5
Beer keg water tank
Water tank using a beer keg
The rear support of the guard had to be modified so as not to obstruct the tank or vise versa
20 Litre Keg Scematic
Screw boat bung and housing
The position of the bung at the top most corner at the bottom of the keg
Outlet setup at the top on the keg
Length of hose with fittings is kept inside the rail tube on the tray
Seek News › DIY › Setting Up Kegs As Water Tanks On The Hilux
Back to top Back to main Skip to menuPosted by: Rusty_ on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 (00:01:04) (448 Reads) Article Rating: 5
Beer keg water tank
| Material and /or Parts | |
|---|---|
Approx Time: | 1 Day |
| 1. | 2 * Homebrew Beer Kegs |
| 2. | 4 * Strips of Aluminium and thin rubber to suit |
| 3. | 8 * 8mm * 25 mm HT bolts with lock nuts |
| 4. | 2 * 1/2 inch male to male fittings |
| 5. | 2 * 1/2 inch gate valves |
| 6. | 2 * 1/2 male to female fittings optional |
| 7. | 2 * 1/2 inch male hose connectors |
For this project I used 2 home brew beer kegs or another name is post mix keg.
I know we all drink out of plastic bottle on occasions etc, but I prefer to have our camping water in stainless steel, it's durable, doesn't rust nor leave that plastic taste in your mouth (yuck!)
Another benefit is because they are tucked up and out of the way, they won't get smashed when exiting up out of a gullies. ( even though that bloody draw bar does, that's another project).
A disadvantage I can see is that the weight is behind the rear axle but it's not much and I can live with it.
After I acquired the kegs from my Ol man
( Took some convincing )
I removed the tube as per the schematic diagram below, and undid the cap in the middle of the keg, and gave it a clean out with fresh water and vinegar.
Once it had dried out and with the cap still off, I got the 4 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel on it and gently cut through the weld that held on the rings for the handle and base, being careful not to cut into the keg itself.
I then cleaned the sharp edges left with a flapper disc, which is a 4 inch disc with a series of sandpaper flaps on it.
I then got a hole saw and and drilled a hole at the topmost corner on the bottom of the keg ( see photo below ) This allowed me to fit a boat screw bung and housing setup.
With the bung housing a nice snug fitting, I drilled 2 holes to take the appropriate size stainless pop rivet. I removed the bung housing deburred the holes and applied a generous amount of food grade silicon, replaced the housing and pop riveted it in.
All that was left to do now was fit it out and up.
I replaced the pressure fitting that came out when removing the tube with a 1/2 in male to male fitting, and then attached a gate tap.
I also got another 1/2 inch male - female fitting so I could screw a male hose connector to fill up the tank. ( I didn't really need the extra male - female fitting but I already had it so I used it)
I had to modify the rear guard support so that it wouldn't be obstructed by the tank. ( photo below )
I got 4 strips of aluminum ( 2 for each tank ) bent them around the tank and at right angle at the end so they could bolt up to the tray.
Caution. This took a bit of fitting and checking so that it would have good clamping pressure against the keg when I bolted it up, I also allowed for a thin strip of rubber to go between as to stop the tank moving or rubbing.
Because our tray is a Triple M tray it has small angle ribs going cross ways about 10 cm apart on the tray.
I drilled a hole through the right angle of the aluminum strip and tray on both sides of the keg, and bolted them up with lock nuts.
Replace center tap on keg if you haven't already done so, undo bung at the other end of the tank.
Connect hose to gate valve end, open gate valve, turn on hose and fill till water is flowing out of the bung hole.
Close valve as you disconnect hose, tighten up bung and check for leaks.
Tips and Tricks
Leave yourself a bit of length on the bent angle say 2 inches and don't bend the second right angle until you are sure it's right.
If your tray suits, you can insert a hose through the handrail and fit the connectors so it is all handy when you need to fill up. ( see photo below )
I know we all drink out of plastic bottle on occasions etc, but I prefer to have our camping water in stainless steel, it's durable, doesn't rust nor leave that plastic taste in your mouth (yuck!)
Another benefit is because they are tucked up and out of the way, they won't get smashed when exiting up out of a gullies. ( even though that bloody draw bar does, that's another project).
A disadvantage I can see is that the weight is behind the rear axle but it's not much and I can live with it.
After I acquired the kegs from my Ol man
( Took some convincing )I removed the tube as per the schematic diagram below, and undid the cap in the middle of the keg, and gave it a clean out with fresh water and vinegar.
Once it had dried out and with the cap still off, I got the 4 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel on it and gently cut through the weld that held on the rings for the handle and base, being careful not to cut into the keg itself.
I then cleaned the sharp edges left with a flapper disc, which is a 4 inch disc with a series of sandpaper flaps on it.
I then got a hole saw and and drilled a hole at the topmost corner on the bottom of the keg ( see photo below ) This allowed me to fit a boat screw bung and housing setup.
With the bung housing a nice snug fitting, I drilled 2 holes to take the appropriate size stainless pop rivet. I removed the bung housing deburred the holes and applied a generous amount of food grade silicon, replaced the housing and pop riveted it in.
All that was left to do now was fit it out and up.
I replaced the pressure fitting that came out when removing the tube with a 1/2 in male to male fitting, and then attached a gate tap.
I also got another 1/2 inch male - female fitting so I could screw a male hose connector to fill up the tank. ( I didn't really need the extra male - female fitting but I already had it so I used it)
I had to modify the rear guard support so that it wouldn't be obstructed by the tank. ( photo below )
I got 4 strips of aluminum ( 2 for each tank ) bent them around the tank and at right angle at the end so they could bolt up to the tray.
Caution. This took a bit of fitting and checking so that it would have good clamping pressure against the keg when I bolted it up, I also allowed for a thin strip of rubber to go between as to stop the tank moving or rubbing.
Because our tray is a Triple M tray it has small angle ribs going cross ways about 10 cm apart on the tray.
I drilled a hole through the right angle of the aluminum strip and tray on both sides of the keg, and bolted them up with lock nuts.
Replace center tap on keg if you haven't already done so, undo bung at the other end of the tank.
Connect hose to gate valve end, open gate valve, turn on hose and fill till water is flowing out of the bung hole.
Close valve as you disconnect hose, tighten up bung and check for leaks.
Tips and Tricks
Leave yourself a bit of length on the bent angle say 2 inches and don't bend the second right angle until you are sure it's right.
If your tray suits, you can insert a hose through the handrail and fit the connectors so it is all handy when you need to fill up. ( see photo below )
Water tank using a beer keg
The rear support of the guard had to be modified so as not to obstruct the tank or vise versa
20 Litre Keg Scematic
Screw boat bung and housing
The position of the bung at the top most corner at the bottom of the keg
Outlet setup at the top on the keg
Length of hose with fittings is kept inside the rail tube on the tray